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The Road to Bab Sharki
by Peter Ryan
I'm staying at the St. Elias Monastery in the Dweila neighborhood of Damascus, which is a Christian part of town, though "St. Elias Dormitory" is a more apt description. Every room has two single beds. I have free internet access, air-conditioning, a TV, a private bathroom and a mini-fridge. Damascus hosts a number of extravagant 5-star hotels. This is may be humble in comparison, but I am by no means "roughing it." The hot water knocked out for a couple of days, but that only made today's shower all the more enjoyable.
I've spent most of my time so far wandering around, getting a feel for the place. Walking is an adventure in itself. Pedestrians do NOT have the right of way, and, if you cross the street, cars won't slow. At best they'll honk to remind you to pick up the pace. Luckily, the Monastery is only a few minutes walk to Bab Sharki, one of the seven gates to the Old City of Damascus.
Here is the basic lay-of-the-land:
| Street Market
If i turn right outside St. Elias there is St. Paul's, an enormous church. Further down I can take a left through a narrow alley and hit the street markets where people set out blankets every day to hawk fresh produce. Cherries, tomatoes, bananas, potatoes, onions, cabbage–you know the drill. These markets pop up everywhere. The narrow streets swell with patrons and you sort of have to nudge and elbow your way through the swarm. |
| The Road to Bab Sharki
Parked across the street are a Cadillac limousine and two beautiful classic white convertibles which are rented out for weddings. When the party caravans down the street, the horn in front will be letting you know there's a wedding on–there'll be nothing subtle about it. |
If I turn left I pass two flower shops and an internet cafe before quickly hitting St. Elias, another enormous church. 
